Method of making shoes



June 30, 1931.

Filed Jan. 14, 19:50

Affm-rwe Patented June 30, 1931 AUGUSTO DALESSANDRO, OF LYNN,MASSACHUSETTS METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Application filed January 14, 1930.Serial No. 420,777.

This invention relates to shoes and more particularly to a new andimproved method of making shoes in which the required investment inmanufacturing equipment is minimized, yet the product materiallyimproved.

It has for its objects to minimize the use of metal tacks heretoforevoluminously utilized in shoe making; to avoid the working 1 through"the shoe materials of tacks and other metal parts; to produce a tacklessMcKay process shoe; to provide a method by which time, operations,materials, and money can be conserved in producing a eemented shoe; tominimizethe cost of making cemented shoes; to produce good shoes at sucha saving in production cost as to make their sale speedy in the highlycompetitive sales field; to provide a shoe more 2.) comfortable to thefoot than heretofore; to eliminate the expenseof armoured lasts in shoemaking; to minimize needle breaking in shoe stitching, the major portionof which is caused by the needle contacting with tacks normally usedin'the manufacturing process to eliminate grooving of the sole and thepossibility of running off the groove with the resulting damage to thesole and the upper; to lay the out sole of the shoe without staples ortacks; to so impregnate and adhere the outsole and the insole that theybecome practically one and the same piece; to thus obtain as good and asflexible results as in a turn shoe, to enable the speeding of productionthrough the elimination of manufacturing operations and the eliminationof the normal interruptions; to thereby cut overhead; to avoid thecurling of the innersole during the process of manufacture; and tosecure the 40 various other advantages and results made evident from thefollowing specification.

I accomplish the objects of my invention by first temporarily tacking aninsole. preferably a thin one, but optionally of any thickness. upon anunarmourcd last. I then assemble an ordinary lined upper upon the last,pull it over the tion, and temporarily hold it in position by a limitednumber of tacks driven part way in, on a line near the edge of the'shoeand remove the tacks.

insole in its desired posiaway from the edge of the upper and lining soas to leave said edges and that portion of the insole thereunder freeand available.

I then coat with cement the outer available surface of the insole, theinner available portion of the upper and both available surfaces of thelining and allowthe cement to dry. Next I press the upper and liningagainst the insole into its final resting place and The bottom of theshoe is then buffed to remove all projections and glaze, and againcoated with cement. IVhen the last mentioned cement is dry, I apply anunchannelled sole which has also been first coated and dried. At thisstage a sole level- 66 ling machine may be advantageously used forperfection in detail, although the same re sults may be obtained by handmethod without the use of the machine, which if used it will be noted isthe first. expensive equip- 70 ment resorted to. In addition to theoutsole cementing above referred to the shoe may then be stitchedthrough and through the outsole, upper, lining, and insole without fearof the insole curling as in the usual inanu- 7 facturing process. Theshoe is then finished in the usual way.

Referring to the accompanying drawings which form a part of thisspecification and in which similar letters of reference refer to similarparts throughout the various views, Figure 1 shows a bottom view of ashoe with the lined upper assembled over a last and upon an inner solewith the temporary tacks holding the upper in lasted position. In thisView, the edges of the lining and upper and that portion of the insolethereunder, are free and accessible for the application of cement oradhesive. Figure 2 shows the edges of the lining and upper in presseddown position after the adhesive has dried and the bottom of the shoebuffed smooth ready for the application of the sole. Figure 3 shows across sectional View of the shoe on-line AA in Figure 1 with anunchannelled solo in 9 finished position thereon.

eferring again to the drawings, B shows the last, C shows the upper, Dshows the lining, shows the insole, F shows the temporary tacks whichhold the lining and up- Wt per in position on the last, G shows thetacks which temporarily hold the insole upon the last, H showsthecoating of adhesive applied and allowed to dry before the edges ofthe lining and upper are pressed into final position as shown in'Figure2.

If a shoe with a heavy extension sole is desired it is'made as alreadydescribed but the edge of the outsole is cut of proper size to projectthe requisite amount beyond the edge of the upper. Then an extra sole isapplied and stitched along its edge as in the Goodyear welt process. Nofilling is required. The edge is finished in the usual manner.

My improved method will be well understood from the detailed descriptionherein, covering one mode of practising the same and as illustrated inthe accompanying drawings. It will be understood however that the scopeof the invention as defined by the claims hereto appended is not limitedto the particular materials or steps which have been chosen forillustrative purposes in this specification.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent of the United States of America:

1. The method of making shoes which includes temporarily tacking aninsole, upon an unarmoured-last; assembling a lined up per upon the lastand insole thereon, pulling the lining and upper over the insole in de'sired position and temporarily securing the upper and lining in suchposition by a limited number of tacks driven part way in on a line awayfrom the edges of the upper and lining so as to leave said edges andthat part of the insole thereunder free and accessible, coating withcement the outer available surface of the insole, the inner availableportions of the upper, and both available surfaces of the lining,allowing the cement to dry,'pressing the upper and lining against theinsole into final resting place and removing the tacks, buffing thebottom of the shoe to remove all projections and glaze, coating thebottom of the shoe with cement, allowing the same to dry, applying anoutsole which has first been cement coated and dried, press? ing theoutsole into finished position, stitching the shoe through and throughthe outsole, upper, lining, and insole, and finishing the shoe in theusual manner.

2. The method of making shoes which includes temporarily tacking aninsole upon an unarmoured last; assembling a lined upper upon the lastand insole thereon, pulling the lining and upper over the insole indesired position and temporarily securing the upper and lining in suchposition by :1 limited number of tacks driven part way in on a line awayfrom the edges of the upper and lining so as to leave said edges andthat part of the insole thereunder free and accessible,

coating with cement the outer available surface of the insole, theinneravailable portions of the upper, and both available surfaces of thelining, allowing the cement to dry, pressing the upper and liningagainst the insole into final resting place and removing the tacks,buffing the bottom of the shoe to remove all projections and glaze,coating the bottom of the shoe with cement, allowing the same to dry,applying an outsole which has first been cement coated and dried,pressing the outsole into finished position, and finishing the shoe inthe usual manner.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature.

AUGUST 0 DALESSANDRQ.

